“Ultra-cheap clothes soaked in chemicals”… Harmful substances detected at 12,000 times the limit - 경향신문

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Ultra-low-cost fashion platforms where a single garment can be bought for just a few thousand to tens of thousands of won. They are popular because they offer a wide variety of designs at low prices, but a price tag alone makes it difficult to verify whether products contain hazardous chemicals. Recently, successive investigations have found hazardous chemicals in products from the China-based fashion platform SHEIN, intensifying the safety debate.

According to Germany public radio Deutschlandfunk and other local media, environmental groups recently pointed out that even after SHEIN removed the products at issue from its sales list, identical or similar items have continued to circulate. A survey result also reported that harmful chemicals were detected in a youth jacket at more than 12,000 times the European Union (EU) limit.

Greenpeace Germany published a report last month that revisited hazardous substances in SHEIN apparel. Based on follow-up findings announced in March, Greenpeace criticized SHEIN for failing to sufficiently block the distribution of identical or similar products even after external warnings. In that investigation, substances exceeding EU chemical regulation thresholds were detected in 25 of 31 clothing and footwear items purchased from SHEIN, accounting for about 81% of all items examined.

This follow-up check was conducted to determine whether identical or similar products to those in which hazardous substances had been detected in November last year were still being sold. In December 2025, Greenpeace purchased 31 items again on the German SHEIN platform for testing. The scope included not only the exact same products previously flagged but also items that differed only in color or design, or that were similar in appearance and materials. The purpose was to confirm that even if a product under a specific item number is deleted, similar products may continue to be sold.

Greenpeace asserted that SHEIN merely deleted the problematic item numbers and did not adequately scrutinize similar products. However, because this round of testing selected items similar to those previously found to be problematic, the 81% figure should not be interpreted as the detection rate of hazardous substances for all SHEIN products.

The hazardous substances issue was also identified in other investigations. In June this year, the German environmental and consumer organization Deutsche Umwelthilfe (DUH) released laboratory test results on SHEIN products. The Bremen Environmental Institute tested 18 items of clothing, shoes, and accessories for children, teenagers, and women sold on SHEIN in May-June 2026, and residues of hazardous or concerning chemicals were found in 15 items. Of these, seven exceeded EU chemical regulation limits.

The product that sparked the greatest controversy was a hooded jacket for teenagers. In this item, a particular per- and polyfluoroalkyl substance (PFAS) was detected at a concentration more than 12,000 times the EU regulatory limit. In women boots, the plasticizer diethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP), which raises concerns about reproductive toxicity, exceeded the permitted limit by 179 times. DUH stated that it would take legal action against SHEIN based on the findings.

PFAS are a group of synthetic chemicals used in apparel with water- and stain-repellent functions because they repel water and oil. They do not readily degrade in the natural environment and are also called ‘forever chemicals’. Some PFAS are known to be associated with health problems such as cancer and effects on the immune system. However, PFAS is an umbrella term covering thousands of substances, so toxicity and health effects vary by individual substance.

In addition to PFAS, the DUH-tested products were also analyzed for phthalates; heavy metals such as lead, chromium, and nickel; and various chemicals including formaldehyde and volatile organic compounds (VOCs). Phthalates are plasticizers used to make plastics more flexible, and the use of some substances is restricted due to concerns such as reproductive and developmental toxicity. Heavy metals can likewise adversely affect the nervous system and organs depending on the type and level of exposure.

Controversy over hazardous substances in SHEIN apparel also emerged last year. In a report published in November last year, Greenpeace Germany examined 56 SHEIN clothing and footwear items purchased in eight countries including Germany. Hazardous substances exceeding EU chemical regulation limits were detected in 18 products (32%), and items for children were among them.

That investigation found not only PFAS related to water- and stain-repellent functions but also phthalates. Fourteen of the 56 items exceeded the limit for phthalates, six of which were more than 100 times the threshold. Several jackets exceeding PFAS limits were also identified. In some jackets, PFAS at about 3,300 times the EU limit was detected. This was the investigation that yielded the figure of ‘3,000 times’ reported earlier.

The fact that hazardous substances exceeded the limits does not mean that wearing the clothes will immediately cause cancer. Actual health risk varies depending on the type and concentration of the substance, the route of exposure such as skin contact or inhalation, and the duration and amount of exposure. Nor can the likelihood of cancer for a particular consumer be determined solely from product test results. However, because it is difficult for consumers to confirm the types and contents of hazardous chemicals from product descriptions alone, experts continue to call for verification and management of product safety.

Moritz Jaegerroschko, a circular economy expert at Greenpeace Germany, said when releasing the findings that “SHEIN symbolizes a sick system that leads to oversupply, the pursuit of profit, and a global waste problem,” and that “fast fashion should be curbed through policy.”