Restoration of Kashmir’s Malshahi Masjid could erase a Mughal-era layer, warn conservationists

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A view of snow covered mosque at Sonamarg Ganderbal district on January 14 2025. Image for the purpose of representation. | Photo Credit: IMRAN NISSAR

Unattended for centuries, the 17th Century mosque, Malshahi Masjid, in central Kashmir’s Ganderbal district is likely to offer a rare peep into the past with its conservation and restoration. However, conservationists warn against tampering with the structure, which could erase a layer from the Mughal era in Kashmir.

In May this year, J&K Chief Minister Omar Abdullah laid the foundation stone for restoration, conservation and development of the historic Masjid Hamam and allied works at Malshahi Masjid, Malshahi Bagh, at an estimated cost of ₹5.01 crore. Since then, the site has witnessed many changes, including laying of stone pavement. However, experts expressed concern over the current conservation plan.

“The significance of the mosque lies in its association with Akhund Mulla Shah and the Sufi order, and the connection of Jahanara and Dara Shikoh to Mulla Shah, and their sponsorship of infrastructure for Mulla Shah. It is a relatively small mosque but is distinctive in its materiality and position in a terrace garden compared to two other Mughal-era mosques of Pathar Masjid and Mulla Shah Masjid in Nagar Nagar (Srinagar),” Jan Haenraets, a landscape architect and historic preservation specialist, told The Hindu.

Built in the 17th Century by Mughal prince Dara Shikoh in a highland terrace garden in Ganderbal’s Malshahi Bagh, it is one of the few structures that have not undergone major changes. Mr. Haenraets, also author of the book Kashmir’s Mughal Landscapes, said the site, importantly, even though in ruins, “actually holds much authentic material”.

“In many gardens that have been ‘conserved’, much of that has been removed, damaged, or lost. The mosque itself holds significance in its architectural plan, materiality and the views to the Anchar lake. The surviving interior details, such as plasterwork, are highly significant, even though much was damaged and lost over the years. This still shows authentic elements, which have now largely disappeared in Kashmir, often due to inappropriate redevelopment practices,” Mr. Haenraets, who is also Professor of the Practice, Preservation Studies Program at Boston University, Boston, Massachusetts, United States, said.

The expert underlined that the significance of Mulla Shah Bagh does not lie in its mosque but in the totality of the bagh and the garden’s high level of authenticity and integrity, with the masjid as only one element of the garden complex. “The garden is also of key importance for the hydrological features, including multiple irrigation nallahs that pass through the garden,” Mr. Haenraets said.

However, there is cause for concern among the experts about its restoration and conservation, which primarily stems from the originality retained by the site.

“For about 400 years, the site has been largely forgotten, and remarkably, it survived with much more authenticity and integrity than the Mughal gardens that have become popular tourist destinations (and as such have been much damaged and altered). While it is in ruins, it has a level of archaeological significance and authenticity in its terrace location that cannot be found at many Mughal sites in Kashmir,” Mr. Haenraets said.

He warned that the funding-driven and hasty interventions could destroy what the locals achieved in over 400 years. The stone pavement work and the facelifting have already raised eyebrows about the conservation plan.

“Importantly, a thorough conservation plan must be prepared before any major on-site projects are undertaken. It should be prepared by experts who are aware of the international conservation principles. It should also engage local Kashmiri experts and stakeholders. Sadly, the J&K government and the Indian government have in recent years largely dismissed such processes,” Mr. Haenraets said.

He said the launch of the project and its funding “appears to place the garden and its structures at high risk”. “If unqualified professionals were handed these projects, the objective appears to be the development of the site as a ‘major tourist destination’,” he added.

The U.S.-based expert asked the government “to revisit their plans”. “As far as it is now understood, these approaches would destroy the significance of the place in an irreversible manner and are not in line with the best standards of cultural heritage conservation,” he warned.

He said Kashmir witnessed massive damage in recent years to its unique environment, cultural heritage and hydrology. “Such as under the controversial Smart City program or the ongoing so-called conservation at Shalimar Bagh. Kashmir has some of the most significant Mughal garden heritage, together with many other types of heritage from other periods, including Naga, Buddhist, and Hindu heritage. However, this heritage and Kashmir’s natural environment have been steadily damaged, often as a result of funding-driven, self-aggrandizing, or politically motivated projects,” he added.

The mosque is located on the spur of a hill of Behama. Hakim Sameer Hamdani, author of the book City of Kashmir, said, “Overlooking the wide expanse of the Anchar lake, the situation of mosque is more reminiscent of Mughal baghs (garden) of Kashmir, than of a religious structure.”

He said the site shares a sense of surrounding similar to some of the royal Mughal baghs of the period, especially Chasma Shahi and Pari Mahal. “In fact, the mosque is designed as ‘baradari’. While most of the terraces along with parts of the buildings within it have been lost, it is still possible to form a basic idea of the site,” Mr. Hamdani said.

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