Okinawa: Whispers of the Ryukyu Kingdom - Journeys in Japan | NHK WORLD-JAPAN - NHKニュース

Across the Ryukyu Islands, you can find elevated sites surrounded by stone walls. The walls protected gusuku or castles built between the 14th and the 15th centuries. Unlike the castles in mainland Japan that emerged in the Sengoku period (15th to 16th centuries), gusuku were also sacred places of community rituals and festivals. Photographer Alfie Goodrich feels the history of Okinawa through exploring these precious ruins.

reigning over the islands of Okinawa.

we take in monuments that testify to a kingdom's rich heritage.

some 1,500 kilometers to the south.

sets out to capture the island's mystery and glory.

and it's said there was a unique castle here.

I wonder what it's like. Let's good to take a look.

Well, it looks just like a European castle.

This castle is called the Itokazu Gusuku.

In Okinawa, castles are called gusuku.

The ruins of this hilltop castle date to the early 14th century.

A milky color and malleability are its characteristics.

formed from coral reefs was used in building materials.

The stonewall has a beautiful curve.

This masonry style is unique to Okinawa.

It was considered cutting-edge in East Asia.

This fragment of a Chinese tea bowl from 600 years ago was excavated here.

The Ryukyu Kingdom traded with China at the time.

It imported pottery like this in large quantities.

in large quantities from China to sell them to Japan at profit.

During excavations ruins have been found.

It is estimated that Itokazu had dozens of buildings.

It featured both a settlement and a fortress.

But there is no written record, so everything is a mystery.

Then we just have to use our imagination.

No, this is a place for prayer, called "utaki."

There are several sacred places like this here.

and it's a settlement, and it's a place for prayer.

Takebe Takuma is researching utaki in the old castle compounds.

Its stone walls were said to be the best-preserved of existing castles.

Nakagusuku Castle was built in the mid-to-late 14th century.

That one prays for the island over there.

In most cases, castles were built on hills or mountains.

a rocky crop was always left at the top in its natural state.

And it was used as an utaki for prayer.

Do you feel gusuku are more like sacred sites than castles?

I believe that gusuku were originally places of prayer.

and performed rituals to project themselves as gods.

By doing so, they displayed power to the people.

Aji attempted to govern the area by being seen as gods.

of governing the people of the area.

I wonder if these are something to do with the praying?

Excuse me, what are these creatures?

These are "shisa." They are guardians of Okinawans.

We put them on rooftops and gates. They are popular here.

Our pottery. It's called Tsuboya-yaki.

We have made tableware and shisa here from long ago.

Shimabukuro Jouei has been crafting the lion figures since childhood.

the government named him as a distinguished traditional craftsperson.

This is the stokehole of the "noborigama" kiln.

It is the first place where the fire is lit.

In its heyday, the district had dozens of them.

Shuri Castle of the Ryukyu Kingdom is located on that hill.

Look at this 2,000 yen banknote. It features the Shurei-mon gate.

Shurei-mon gate is at the very entrance of Shuri Castle.

It was likely built in the second half of the 14th century.

the castle thrived as the heart of the Ryukyu Kingdom.

and pre-Edo and Edo castles is defined by the gentle curves.

I think this reflects the Ryukyu aesthetic.

It's spring water. Shall we go see it?

The water, called "ryuhi," is considered Okinawa's finest.

and to guests from China called "Sapposhi."

Sapposhi were envoys sent by the Chinese emperor.

of the new Ryukyu king's coronation.

the main palace where the kings once lived.

But the castle is being reconstructed to its former glory.

Kawakami Hiroyuki is directing the restoration.

This place is called the "gensun-jo."

We check all our intricate designs using real-scale drawings.

have assembled here from all over Japan.

but now I am working to rebuild Shuri Castle as a resident of Okinawa.

It was really a surprise. And I am proud about the work I get to do.

The main material is "hinoki" cypress.

Of the 10,000 timbers being used, more than 6,000 are hinoki.

where the public can come and see everything that's happening.

Yes. We received significant donations worldwide

the progression of work at the reconstruction site.

And now is the time to see it in progress.

So, we hope people will enjoy this.

Shuri-jo Castle is the largest gusuku in Okinawa.

It's also a symbol to the Okinawan people.

And it getting back its appearance is like them regaining their identity.

And I look forward to that happening in 2026.

This cobblestone is very beautiful.

It was constructed around 1522 to connect Shuri Castle and Naha's port.

The path was also used for defense.

to defend the castle against pirates.

the existing section extends only 280 meters.

just unfolding right before my eyes.

Another route stretches out from Shuri Castle.

And they would stop at the Futenmagu shrine.

Every year, they prayed here for good health.

There is a cave behind our main building.

People lived there long ago, and they made a place for prayer.

Then, they began to enshrine gods of a Ryukyu Shinto tradition.

A bullet hole in the gate serves as a reminder.

is now buried under the runways of a US base.

if the US Futenma Air Base is returned to Japan.

In the meantime, we are now constructing a park in front of the shrine.

Will the beautiful pine canopy be resurrected one day?

The Sakaemachi Ichiba is a maze-like market crammed with 120 stalls.

This is "goya" bitter gourd, an Okinawan summer vegetable.

People even like tails, which make broth more flavorful.

By day, the Sakaemachi Ichiba is busy with shoppers.

Here you are, "goya champuru" and "mozuku" tempura.

Oh, wow. Wow. Mozuku is a kind of seaweed,

but it's mixed in here with carrots and onion.

And there's also like a taste of tuna as well.

That's goya champuru, an Okinawan signature dish.

and the slightly bitter goya is very, very delicious.

The "sanshin," a traditional Okinawan instrument.

Irei Shunichi is a singer-songwriter.

Alfie, you are touring Okinawa's gusuku, aren't you?

Actually, there is a ruin in my hometown.

It's a little far, but would you like to go?

About an hour by ferry from the main island...

That's Izena Island with its human form.

It looks just like a person sleeping.

- Well, what a beautiful day. - Yes, yes.

It is small, with a circumference of about 16 kilometers.

The fortress was built around the latter half of the 14th century.

This place is also related to my ancestors.

eventually became king of the Ryukyus.

A statue marks Sho En's birthplace.

and I learned that I was a descendent of Sho En.

but that's not an easy career choice.

Yet, I was encouraged by Sho En to take a step forward.

I now live near Shuri Castle, where Sho En reigned.

When things are hard, I visit Shuri Castle to cheer me up.

Kagiyadefubushi Classical Okinawan music played at celebratory events.

that was more about battles or defenses.

But this trip has really changed that idea for me.

The mystery of gusuku is a history that still cannot be solved.

And I hope you'll join me again sometime soon.