“As the chilly wind begins to blow, the tteokbokki from that place comes to mind”···‘The unchanging taste of old eateries’ Could my favorite spot be here too? - 경향신문

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Mabokrim Halmeoni-jip, where the secret is a special sauce made by mixing gochujang and chunjang.

As the autumn wind begins to blow, one starts to crave hot broth and spicy seasoning. In Seoul, there are tteokbokki shops that have stayed in the same spot for decades, woven into everyday life. Trends in tteokbokki have shifted over time, but old establishments still hold unchanging flavors and stories.

The Seoul Tourism Organization introduced a fall itinerary that explores Seoul tteokbokki stalwarts along with nearby walking routes. Among ‘Oraegage’, the list of places the city recognizes for maintaining tradition for more than 30 years, are Kokkiri Bunsik in Mapo-gu, Apple House in Dongjak-gu, Inggo-ne Tteokbokki in Jungnang-gu, and Mabokrim Halmeoni-jip in Jung-gu.

It is hard to talk about the Sindang-dong tteokbokki alley without mentioning Mabokrim Halmeoni-jip. Starting as a street stall in 1953 in Sindang-dong, it is counted among the starting points of the Sindang-dong tteokbokki culture.

Grandmother Ma Bok-rim is said to have conceived the method of mixing chunjang and gochujang after tasting seasoned rice cakes at a Chinese restaurant. She then created a sauce that combines the nutty richness of chunjang with the spiciness of gochujang.

A hallmark here is the instant tteokbokki style of cooking at the table, placing rice cakes, sauce, and various add-ins in a pot and simmering them yourself. You can add ramyeon noodles and fried dumplings so the sauce soaks in thoroughly.

From Sindang-dong, walk past Ssajeon Street and a little farther to reach Heunginjimun Park. A trail follows the Hanyangdoseong city walls, and you can look out over the cityscape around Dongdaemun. Follow the wall path and it continues to Naksan Park. Courtesy of the Seoul Tourism Organization

If you would like to explore the old lanes of Sindang-dong as well, it is worth heading toward Ssajeon Street. Once an alley of rice shops and mills, it now hosts cafes and small goods stores that repurpose old buildings, becoming part of the so-called ‘Hipdang-dong’.

Walk a bit farther to reach Heunginjimun Park. A walking trail runs along the Hanyangdoseong walls, and you can look down over the Dongdaemun area. Follow the wall path and it continues to Naksan Park.

Kokkiri Bunsik, tucked in an alley in Dohwa-dong, Mapo-gu, has served instant tteokbokki for over 30 years between Gongdeok Station and Mapo Station. It has long drawn nearby office workers and students, and it is a far cry from restaurants with flashy decor. Its weathered exterior and the narrow alley setting instead shape the mood here.

The tteokbokki first brings sweet and savory notes, followed by a gentle heat. It differs somewhat from newer styles that lead with spiciness. Another feature is simmering yakimandu, gim-mari, and odd-shaped fritters together in the broth. Especially when you soak the odd-shaped fritters and then mash them into the broth, the tteokbokki sauce mingles with the toasty richness of the fritters.

Fried rice awaits at the end. Add egg to the remaining sauce, stir-fry rice, and the meal is complete. After tteokbokki, you can head to Gongdeok Market Jokbal Alley, about a 15-minute walk past Gongdeok Station. In the market alleys where long-running jokbal places cluster, some spots also serve soondae and soondae soup, making it a good place to feel the atmosphere of a traditional Seoul market.

If you want to walk a bit more, Hyochang Park is another option. It is about a 25-minute walk from Gongdeok Station and holds the burial sites of figures from the Provisional Government period, including Baekbeom Kim Gu. Inside the park is the Baekbeom Kim Gu Memorial Hall.

After the meal, you can head to the Seoul National Cemetery. Walk from Apple House to Chongshin University Entrance Station, take Line 4 for one stop, and you will reach Dongjak Station. The cemetery is filled with old trees that form a forest, making it a good autumn walking route.

Apple House near Isu Station in Dongjak-gu is an instant tteokbokki spot that began in a small arcade in Banpo before moving. A menu that rose to fame alongside the tteokbokki is seasoned fried dumplings.

Its tteokbokki sauce blends gochujang with chunjang, with garlic added. Rather than a strong burn, the depth and sweetness of chunjang stand out. As it simmers, cabbage releases sweetness that softens the sauce.

The seasoned fried dumplings are crispy dumplings tossed in a sweet-spicy dressing. With tteokbokki, the crunch contrasts with the sauce.

After the meal, you can move on to the Seoul National Cemetery. From Apple House, walk to Chongshin University Entrance Station, take Line 4 for one stop, and you will arrive at Dongjak Station. The cemetery is filled with old trees that form a forest, making it a good autumn walking route.

If you want a view of the Han River, you can also visit the Sunset Cafe at Dongjak Bridge. It is within walking distance from Dongjak Station, and at dusk you can look out over the river and the city.

At Inggo-ne Tteokbokki, the flavor is spicy and bracing. Finely chopped perilla leaves are added as it simmers to boost aroma. The bold sauce brightens with the scent of perilla, making the taste feel fresher.

Inggo-ne Tteokbokki, in the residential lanes of Myeonmok-dong, Jungnang-gu, preserves the feel of an old-school snack shop. It passed from mother-in-law to daughter-in-law, and now the son runs the place with his mother.

Its tteokbokki is marked by a spicy, clean heat. Finely chopped perilla leaves are added while it cooks to enhance aroma. The strong sauce is lifted by the fragrance of perilla, giving a fresher finish. Another hallmark here is adding table pepper to the tteokbokki, a practice said to date back to the days of the Manguri pojangmacha cluster. You can dip flat dumplings in the sauce, or mash a boiled egg into the seasoning.

After eating, you can visit Mangu History and Culture Park, the resting place of modern historical figures such as Yu Gwan-sun, Han Yong-un, and Bang Jeong-hwan, with walking trails along Mount Mangu. You can also take a break at Jungnang Mangu Space at the park entrance. If you want the vibe of an old amusement park, there is Yongma Land about a 20-minute walk from Inggo-ne Tteokbokki. Its decommissioned rides have made it a location for films, music videos, and photo shoots.